Sunday, January 27, 2013

Head Wrap / Ear Warmer

Modified from T. Matthews Fine Art;  pictures of my final versions in a previous post.

Materials: 
Size 10 knitting needles Bulky Yarn, less than 100 yds, I used Brown Sheep Bulky
Size J Crochet Hook (optional)
Button Gauge:5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)


Abbreviations:
m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop.
m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop.
pfb – purl front and back
* the m1B & F are different from the m1L & R I usually use


Directions: 
CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across
Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increases: 
Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it's the 4th stitch), pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.
Row 7: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 8: Work in the rib pattern.
Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, kfb center st, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.
Row 11: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 12: Work in the rib pattern.

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 23 stitches on the needle.

Work in the rib pattern for 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decreases: 
Row 1: Work to one stitch before the center stitch, slip 1 as to knit, P1, PSO, continue in rib to end of row. Row 2: Work in rib, the two center stitches will be the same.
Row 3: Work to one stitch before the center stitch, slip 1 as to knit, K1, PSO, continue in rib to end of row. Row 4: Work in rib pattern.
Row 5: Work to 1 stitch before the center stitch, P2tog, continue in rib to end of row.
Row 6: Work in rib, the two center stitches will be the same.
Row 7: Work to center two stitches, p2tog, continue in rib to end of row.
Row 8: Work in rib pattern.

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 7 stitches on the needle.

Buttonhole: Work 4 rows in rib pattern Next right side row: Work 2 stitch (still in rib pattern), BO 3, work last stitch. Next wrong side row: cast on 3 stitches over the bound off stitches. Work one row and then bind off all stitches.

For The Flower: 
Large (5 Petal) Flower
Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a slip stitch into first chain to form a ring.
1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.
2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.
Smaller (4 Petal) Flower
Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.
1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.
2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.
Bobble for center 
With size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.
Layer the flower together and attach to the headwrap.

Crochet Instructions: 
SC - Single Crochet: 
Insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. (You should have two loops on your hook.)
Yarn over and draw through both of the loops on your hook. 

HDC - Half Double Crochet:
Yarn over and insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop. (You should have 3 loops on your hook.)
Yarn over again and draw through all three of the loops on the hook.

DC – Double Crochet: 
Yarn over and insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. (3 loops on hook.)
Yarn over and draw through 2 of the loops. (2 loops on hook.)
Yarn over and draw through the last 2 of the loops.

Blue Honey

I should be ashamed to have started something new when there are so many unfinished projects in the house, but the lure of a new project is always difficult to resist!  Daughter #2 asked for an infinity scarf the same night a fellow knitter showed off her finished project.  Honey Cowl Free Pattern

The pattern calls for 2 skeins of Madelinetosh tosh dk, and while I am often very willing to substitute yarns for a pattern, especially in something where gauge is mostly irrelevant like a scarf, I wanted to knit with the Madelinetosh yarn.  D2 was sent to the Madelinetosh website to give me a list of colors she had in mind.

As I toured some of my favorite twin cities yarn shops, I discovered that Madelinetosh yarn is in great demand, and short supply! Near the end of the day, (with both Daughter #1 and my Husband in tow) I found a big supply at Bella Lana.  I had never been there before, but it is near the condo my daughter is renting and is a very nice shop.  My visit was concentrated on the Madelinetosh (and concerned about my non-knitting companions waiting in the car), but the shop was light, bright and tidy.  It is definitely worth a second and more prolonged visit.

Picking a color proved more difficult than I anticipated.  While Bella Lana had about 20 color choices, none were one of the five D2 had chosen from the Madelinetosh website.  So I snapped some pictures and texted them to her.  NONE OF THE PICTURES ACCURATELY PORTRAYED THE COLOR.  It was very frustrating.  And, of course, she rejected the eight I sent her.  (I had sent 1 or 2 earlier in the day from other shops with similar results.)  But I was determined.  I wanted this yarn, there were lots of colors to choose from.  The five she had chosen from the Madelinetosh website may not be accurate reflections of the colors either and given the short supply I found at retail shops, mail order may have been out too.  I narrowed it down to two, called D1 in from the car and we picked Mourning Dove.  The 'shop girl' offered to wind the skeins for me, but knowing my companions were waiting, I declined.

a couple of inches into the Honeycomb pattern
I wound one ball and cast on while we chatted at D1's place before we went out for dinner.  I chose to do a knitting-on cast on so I didn't have to guess at a tail length.  The first few rows of stockinette create a rolled edge, so just join (being careful not to twist) and go.  If you join on the first row, it seems as if the 'right' side of the cast on will get pushed to the wrong side of the work, BUT, because the edge rolls, I think that is the better choice.

The pattern includes 4 size alternatives; I cast on 220 stitches for the long 2 skein version.  The pattern suggests using a longer needle for the 220 stitch version, but I am using my trusty 24" circular.  The stitches are pretty squished.  About 3 rows in, I got a little nervous about the 'join being careful not to twist,' so I grabbed a second size 8 circular needle and knitted about half the stitches onto it.  This allowed me to slide the stitches apart on the needles to see there was no twist. I breathed a sigh of relief, kept knitting and moved all the stitches back to one needle.

The Slip Stitch Honeycomb pattern is very simple and pretty quick:
Round 1: *P1, slip one purlwise* repeat
Round 2, 4: Knit around
Round 3: *slip 1 purlwise, P1* repeat

D2 will be home for a visit in two weeks and I think I can have it done by then.  Then again, I still have to go to work and we are hosting a handful of friends for a Super Bowl party, so she might have to wait a bit!

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

HPKY Shawl

Finished this shawl tonight. The usual issue for me: knitting has been done for months, ends just needed to be sewn in.  In my defense, the pattern called for leaving the ends and adding to them to create fringe; as I finished the shawl, I decided I didn't want fringe.

The finished measurements are 15" x 75".

I have this project on ravelry if you want more information.