Button, Button, Where is the Button?

In a flurry of activity (before the snow flies!) I found some 'lost' projects and sewed on buttons -- 9 buttons to be exact.

First up was the mini wrap from April 2011.  Still disappointed in my yarn selection, I found some nice buttons for it, so let's hope I find a good home for it!

Next up 3 head wraps for my favorite nieces.  They were a very fast knit out of some leftover Brown Sheep Bulky.  And the knitting has been completed for some time.

The flowers are crocheted.  I had only ever done a single chain before, so it took a number of starts (& rips) to get going.  I kept the directions right in front of me the whole time.

The head wrap is a modification of a pattern from T. Matthews and my pattern includes a link to the original.

Misty Alpaca

I started and finished a project in one week.  I think that's a record for me!

Le Petite Echarpe

Referenced in my April 10th post (Misti Alpaca Chunky with a FREE scarf pattern) is finished.  The stitch pattern was fun and produced something rather different. 

I made two adjustments:

• After the cast-on, I was ready for a wrong side, so I did a row of purl.  If I made this again, I might try a different cast-on, one without the right side/wrong side definition of the long-tail method and one that matches the pattern better.
• I was ready for the bind off on the purl side instead of the knit side, so I improvised a bit.  I first tried a straight purl bind-off, but because it was looser and wider than the body, it flared.  The instructions had an alternative for the knit side, but not the purl side.  So I did P2tog, *P2tog, pass the previous stitch over* and repeated across.  It was ok, but then I thought the cast on looked bad, so I picked it out, and did a K2tog bind off to match at the cast on edge.  

When things go wrong . .

This week I finished knitting a project that was disappointing in the end.  It was echo a drop-stitch mobius, the book excerpt in Spring 2011 Interweave Knits. Cowl, capelet or scarf, I really liked the way the stitch pattern looked and the versatility the piece advertised.

I wanted to get to work on this project, so I made a fast substitution. (mistake)  The pattern called for 4 balls of Loop D Loop; it has 55 yds per skein and a gauge of 2.5 sts on a size 13.  I purchased 2 skeins of Mirasol Ushya (114 yds, 2.25 on a 15). The pattern says gauge is not critical, but I was a little small.

The pattern calls for a finished size of 10 x 38.  I have a finished size of 9.75 x 31.

Echo Mobius

I have 3 nieces with narrower shoulders and so I will probably pass it on to one of them.

I checked the Interweave Knits website for errata, but didn't find anything.  I also checked Ravelry for any pattern notes.  No one complained about a yarn shortage, but they did mention the bind-off instructions begin as clear as mud!  (There was also some talk about the buttonholes, but I thought those were fine.)

I did not follow the recommendation for the bind-off exactly.  I had been dropping the stitches in the drop zone all along, so I just dropped during the bind off and grabbed the last stitch to bind-off.  (I know that's a poor explanation, but it made the bind-off match the cast-on!)

I could purchase another skein of yarn and make it longer, but the yarn didn't have the drape and shine I decided the project needed.  So, I will look for someone the project will fit!

Knitting Retreat #15

For the 15th consecutive year, my knitting group enjoyed a great weekend at a B & B with lots of knitting, shopping, and laughing.

Shops this year:
Knitter's Palette
Steven Be
Lila and Claudines
Darn. Knit. {Anyway}
The Yarnery

The first four were all new to me and most of my group.  (The Yarnery is one of our old standbys!)

I spent a little money and added to the stack of patterns I'd like to knit and cupboard full of yarn.  I picked up two different colors of Plymouth Mushishi (but I have three different one skein patterns in mind).

I purchased one skein of Misty Alpaca Chunky with a FREE scarf pattern. I wound that into a ball last night when I couldn't sleep -- it had a knot -- most annoying.

A pink and green Zauberball for fingerless mitts.  I have to rewind and divide it into 2 balls so I can work both mitts at the same time and have my colors go the same direction.  But it is really screaming "Knit ME."  It will probably be on size 1 or 2, while the other yarns are all to be worked on 11 to 13's.

And one book: Viva Poncho.  There are two patterns I liked in it: Eleanor, a raglan poncho with a single cable up the front and back; and Greta with stockinette and reverse stockinette.  Part of what makes that extra funny is that I have an niece Eleanor (Ellie) and a sister Gretta (remember your grade school phonics, long e or short e, my sister's is really the one spelled correctly).

I also carted some works in progress with me.  I didn't finish anything, but I made some good progress on a couple of projects that just need to be wrapped up.  I'm home alone this week, so maybe I will remove something from the UFO pile for good!

Three Needle Bind-Off

My preferred shoulder seam is a Three Needle Bind-Off.  With square shouldered patterns it is very simple.

With shaped shoulders, the pattern is usually written with lots of binding off.  I want to finish my shoulders with live stitches so that I can Three Needle BO.  This can be accomplished with Short Rows.  I have used short rows occasionally, but with very specific instructions.  (Short Rows next time -- it's a lengthy subject!)

Three Needle Bind-Off:

1. Garment parts should be held so that right sides are together. (The Knitty explanation makes this seem much more complicated than it needs to be.)  Occasionally, for a design feature, instructions will suggest wrong sides together. If you want your seam to the wrong side of the fabric, right sides need to be together. 
2. K2tog, with 1 stitch from the front needle and 1 st from the back needle.
   Repeat line 1.
   Pass the 1st st (on the right needle) over the 2nd st for the Bind-Off.
   Repeat lines 1-3.

I watched lots of Video to find one I liked to share with you.  I didn't find one that satisfied me, but I picked two that were close to what I wanted.

This video has no audio, but it was short, to the point, and correct.

Three Needle BO video:
There are some suggestions that I don't do. "Hold both yarns together." I have always just used one and when I am finishing, the other yarn gets sewn in like the other ends.  "..Needle same size or smaller."  I wouldn't use a smaller needle.  I have used a larger needle for binding off, but never smaller.  With most bind-off situations, care should be taken to avoid getting too tight. Finally she frets about a loose loop at the edge of the knitting.  I clean that up that bit if needed when I am sewing in my ends.

A Bead Knitted Bag

This was in my Knitting Daily e-mail today. I had to share because I think it is absolutely gorgeous. I have never tried beaded knitting, although I have friends that have. The pattern is in Knitting Traditions Winter 2011.

I may have to make an additional purchase.

Success with Purl Side Decreases

Here are my 'decrease every row' results:

This is the sleeve opening.

On the left side you can see the left sloping decreases accomplished with an SSK on the knit side and a SSP tog tbl on the purl side.

On the right side, the right sloping decrease is a product of K2tog on the knit side and S(pwise)P PSSO.

These are the same decreases I decided to use last week, but after working with them, I gave them new abbreviations.

Using these sets of decreases worked well for me!

Use SSP2tog tbl and SPP

If you need something that looks like an SSK, use SSPtog tbl.

Slip 1 kwise twice,

return to the left needle,

purl tog tbl (insert right needle into back loop of the second stitch on the left needle from left to right, and then through first stitch on the left needle; purl).

It is complicated, but usually you aren't decreasing across an entire row on the purl side, so I chose it for it's look on the right side of the work.

Need something to look like K2tog? SPP!

Slip 1 purlwise,

Purl the next stitch,

Pass the slipped stitch over.

I got these mixed up 20 times just writing these two posts, but I think the finished line of decreases is worth it.

Shaping Decreases

This is my quick reference for decreasing. I've read tips about keeping which decrease to use where straight, but they just don't stick in my mind.

Tonight my sweater pattern calls for decreases on EVERY row rather than every other. This means I need decreases for the purl side that will line up and match the ones on the knit side.

My two favorite references for things like this (Montse Stanley's Knitter's Handbook and Vicki Square's The Knitter's Companion) gave conflicting advice. So like any 21st Century knitter, I turned to the internet to cast the deciding vote. Of course I got some more conflicting advice. (A Knitter's Blog and The Knitting Fiend among others.)

On Right Side Right Slant (k2tog)

P2tog: Purl 2 together.

SPP: Slip 1 purlwise, purl the next stitch, PSSO.

On Right Side Left Slant (ssk):

P2tog tbl: insert right needle into back loop of the second stitch on the left needle from left to right, and then through first stitch on the left needle; purl.
*: Slip 1 pwise twice, return to the left needle, p2tog tbl. (no name was assigned to this)
P2tog tbl*: slip 1 kwise twice, return to the left, purl tog through the back loops as above. (Also saw this abbreviated as SSP.)

Many writers discuss the difficulty -- I don't care if it is tight or slow, I want the decrease that best matches the K2tog and SSK! Is that really asking too much?

I guess I will have to do some swatches to see what I like. Results tomorrow!

Baby Blue for Henry (& Gretta!)

I had quite a bit of yarn left, so I made a hat to match the sweater.

I used the knitter's handy book of Patterns by Ann Budd to give me some direction for a hat size, but it was too big on the first try and so Henry's mother also gets a hat.

After finishing both hats, I think I know where I went wrong. I knit the sweater on a size 10. I don't have a short (or set of dps) in a size 10, so I bumped up to a 10.5 for the hat, but I cast on for the hat as if I was still using the 10.

Today's special reminder: GAUGE IS IMPORTANT.

Black Linen/Cotton Sweater

{Original post of this mostly finished sweater was April 2009}

Instead of a crochet neck band, I improvised a pick up bind off edge.

I couldn't make the single crochet look good at all, so I wore it a few times without a finished neck. (no one noticed but me.)

The black yarn doesn't show the stitches very well, but you can see the smoothness of the bind off stitches along the front neck edge.

Pick up a stitch by inserting the needle into the neck edge and creating a knit stitch. Pick up a second stitch, then pass the first stitch over the second as in a standard bind off. Repeat.

The neck now has a more finished edge and is not quite as stretchy. Pretty slick!

[Tahki Yarns Spring/Summer Collection 2004, Tahki Yarns Willow, 12 skeins]

Five Hour Baby Sweater

(five hours - ha!)

Five Hour Baby Sweater from yarntootin

It was a good pattern, top down and quick to knit. I used 2 skeins of Cascade 220 Superwash in Skyline Blue (color 884) on a size 10. I purchased the yarn at Crazy Girl Yarn Shop in Iowa City; they had a nice looking sample done that caught my eye.

I am just not that quick (and I never sit still for a whole five hours at one time to see if I am!) I started the sweater in May 2010, as a 'hope' sweater for my sister. I got scared in June and set it aside. In August, when she announced she was pregnant, I got it back out, but didn't restart until November after the baby was born!

One modification I would like to incorporate -- buttonholes. If and when I make it again, I have a note to add some buttonholes.

I used an afterthought buttonhole from a sweater pattern I made a few years ago. I have never seen instructions for this type of buttonhole anywhere else, and I think it is pretty useful.

Afterthought Buttonholes (Peerie Brocade, Charlie Hada)

With WS facing, insert crochet hook into the strand between sts 2 & 3 (worsted/bulky yarns) [fig.3].
Pull strand until loop is about ½" [fig.4]. Then catch the strand above (marked by arrow) and pull it through loop on hook. Lengthen this second loop and tack it down with a piece of yarn.
Return to the hole you have made and repeat the process in a downward direction.

Try Again

There are two important elements to a blog:
• regular posts
• good material

I have had neither of late.

This is my try, try again.


What is this mess? A pile of UFOs (UnFinished Objects). And shortly after I took the picture, I found another lurking in a closet.

There are two baby sweaters in these bags with the knitting already done. One needs buttons and afterthought button holes, and the other needs the sleeves to be attached and buttons added.

They are the simplest finishes, so I will try to tackle them first. I also have an EZ surprise sweater in a pre-teen size and color, a cardigan for myself, an earband (it doesn't need much either), a scarf I started and ripped out, a lace shawl that has been started and ripped out, and a pair of socks.

Pictures and links to some free patterns to follow!